Led Light Strips Poker Table
How to Build a Lighted Poker Table Rail
Led Light Strips Poker Table
Assembling the Lighted Rail
For this step we will be using piece D (the riser), piece C (the top of the rail), and piece B (the bottom of the rail). The first step is to make a notch in piece D with your jigsaw. This notch should be on one of the long sides of the oval ring, be about 6-8' long and extend about 2/3 of the way through the rail (Figure 3-1). This is where your rope light will pass behind itself completing the ring and drop down below the table to connect to power. The exact position and size of this cutout is not all that important.
Thanks for the compliments Rainman!! That table has a LED back-lit raised rail. Its a strip of stainless steel with custom cut letters / logos. Behind that is a strip of translucent white so the LED light comes through. LED also changes colors to anything you want, and flashes, fades, and strobes.but that's a little too much for a poker. All BBO Poker Tables are covered under our 1 YEAR WARRANTY for manufacturing defects. Measure carefully before placing an order with us. Make sure you have enough room to put your awesome new poker table in. We have placed the dimensions of the poker tables on our site so that you can measure and make an informed decision when buying. Custom Poker Table with lights (RGB LED strip lights and Controller) $ 3,095.00 efe080d17765 Add to cart; 96″ Pedestal Poker table with foot rests, black suited speed cloth $ 569.95 IDS-14850 Add to cart. Ready for a guy’s poker night? Buildit’s FREE Texas Holdem Poker Table DIY is sure to be the center of attention. You got the friends and the drink, now let me help you get the table. Lets get started PLY. Generally speaking, you only need one expensive piece of ply and one cheap piece. I went with two sheets of 3/4″ Plywood.
At this point, if you plan to paint the inside edge of D, and you probably should, you should do so. With the notch cut, place piece D on top of piece C and line up the edges. Once you are happy with the fit, secure the two pieces together with 1 1/4' wood screws (Figure 3-2).
Upholstering the Lighted Rail
You now have the top section of the rail assembled and it's time to upholster what you have. Begin by laying your 1' rail foam down flat on the ground. Next you will apply a light coat of adhesive to the top side of the rail (C) and lay it down on top of your foam with the adhesive side facing the foam.
Once the foam is secured to the top of the rail, you can proceed to cut the extra foam off leaving 2-3' of overhang on the outside of the ring and 1' around the inside of the ring. This will allow your rail to be padded on all sides. Now lay your rail vinyl down flat, with the good side down, and lay the padded wood on top of it, making sure that it is centered (Figure 3-4).
It's time to start stretching your vinyl. This is where building a poker table can become an art form. The trick here is to pull out all of the wrinkles and folds making your rail smooth and seemless all the way around.
Led Light Strips Poker Table Cover
The best place to start is at the ends. Like on your playing surface, you can fold one end over and add a few staples. Next you will move the the opposite end and add a couple of staples there after you pull the vinyl very tight. Now repeat this step on each of the sides always pulling the vinyl tight. I like to next to to what would be the corners and pull those tight and get a few staples in. Then I pull and staple the long straight sides. All that should be left are the arcs, and they are already secured in the middle.
The best way to upholster the arcs is to continually pull and staple directly between your previous staples. That is to say, the next place you want to work is half wey between the end of the table, and the staples you already have in the arc. This allows you to continually cut unstapled areas in half and prevents the bunching that often happens when you try to upholster a long stretch all at once.
Once you have the outside of the rail to your liking (don't be afraid to pull staples out and restretch if something is not perfect), you can cut off the extra fabric and get to work on the inside. The first step here is to cut a straight line from end to end, leaving about 3 inches of fabric uncut at each end. Then you will cut a pie pattern around the arcs that will allow you to stretch the fabric easily (Figure 3-5).
The inner ring will upholster similar to the outer ring in that you are constantly moving, stretching, and stapling. The easiest way to do this one is to first staple a 2-3' section at each end and where the arcs begin. Then you are free to pull and staple the long sections and the rest of the arcs. When you're done, and everything is tight and wrinkle free, cut off all of the extra vinyl (Figure 3-6).
Now it's time to add the base of the rail. The first step is laying the bottom of the rail (B) on top of the upholstered rail and marking where your notch is cut out. Then you will have to drill an angled hole for the lights to easily drop through. The size of this hole will be dependant on the size of rope light you are using. The importand part is to drill it at enough of an angle that the lights will seemlessly feed through without having to bend.
The next step is deciding how you would like to finish the exposed area on the outside of the rail. Simple options are paint and finishing strips but this is totally up to you. Once the outside of B is finished, you can lay it down and attach it to the rest of the rail with 1 1/4' wood screws (Figure 3-7).
Your rail is now complete and it is time to add the lights. To do this, you can either secure them around the inner edge of the rail, below the padded area, with the clips provided, or use your own screws/staples and zip ties. If ind that the later works better, but this is up to you. When adding the rope light, you want to start at the beginning of your notch and work your way around away from the notch. Note that you will have to secure the light to the underside of the padded section where the notch is present. For the rest of the rail, you can simply secure to the inner edge of the riser. Once all the way around, the end should feed through your angled hole and you're ready for the connectors to go on (Figure 3-8).
A cross section has been included to help clear up anything that was previously unclear in Figure 3-9.
That's it! You have not built your lighted rail. It's finally time to put it all together. Move on to Step Five - Assembling Your Lighted Poker Table.
Building a lighted poker table can give your home poker game something that most of your other friends just can't offer... Something different. In this section I will show you exactly how to build a poker table with lights and give you the lighted poker table plans for free.
This build cost of this table is slightly higher than that of the standard oval poker table as you will need one additional sheet of wood, to raise your railing, as well as a string of rope lights. The presentation of the completed project more than offsets the additional costs in my opinion.
To following is a complete guide on how to make a poker table with lights, but you can have the lighted poker table plans emailed directly to your inbox, along with all of our other free poker table plans, by going to our Poker Table Plans page and entering your name and email address. Be sure to also stop back by BYOPT and share some photos of your lighted poker table after you are finished with your build. Thanks!
All supplies mentioned in this guide are for sale in our online shop including Full Poker Table Building Kits.